Sri Lanka - a Study in Contrasts

The first time I traveled in South Asia in 2007, a colleague at the time insisted that I begin my travels in Sri Lanka "so as to appreciate it for what it is." This seemed odd to me at the time, and a bit annoying, as it made an already logistically complicated trip across the subcontinent even more complicated. Yet as I have returned to the "teardrop island" since, I have begun to understand the logic at work in his recommendation. Sri Lanka unquestionably shares much with its enormous neighbor to the north. Architecture, cuisine, and other aspects of culture blend in some ways with southern India. Yet much about this island nation is distinct. 

Perhaps first and foremost, Sri Lanka has been deeply influenced by Therevada Buddhism, which is almost unknown in India. This more doctrinaire school of Buddhism, which is also dominant in Thailand and Myanmar, was born here in Sri Lanka and remains deeply rooted here. Buddhism is deeply linked with the majority Sinhalese culture of the island, a linkage that has grown with the rise of religious nationalism in recent years. 

The beach at Negombo (from Wikipedia)

Despite the subtle (or at times not so subtle) narrative that "to be Sri Lankan is to be Buddhist," other religions thrive here as well. The Tamils, who comprise the second largest ethnic group, are predominantly Hindu, much like their more numerous brethren in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu. Although spread throughout the country, Tamils are concentrated in the northern regions of the island, closest to India. Conflict between Tamils and Sinhalese defined the civil war that lasted for 30 years in Sri Lanka's recent history, the wounds of which are fresh and, in some cases, festering. 

St. Mary's Catholic Church in Negombo (from the church's website)

Much like the southern Indian states of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, Christianity is also deeply rooted in Sri Lanka. The Catholic Church traces its roots to the Portuguese colonial settlements of the 16th century. As in other parts of Asia, the Portuguese often found fertile territory for their mission among fishing communities. Certain privileges were given to those who converted. The city of Negombo, where I have stayed this week, is majority Catholic, and home to a number of stunning churches set amidst the palm trees. Later colonial powers, the Dutch and the English, also left a religious mark in the form of Reformed and Anglican churches. It is not uncommon to come across Christians with Portuguese family names -- Perera, Fernandez, Fernando -- as well as Dutch ones. Many Protestant churches today hold services in three languages -- English, Sinhala, and Tamil. 

Dutch-built canal in Negombo (from TripAdvisor)

Perhaps most strikingly, Sri Lanka moves on a smaller scale. Although there are portions of Colombo that are crowded, you can't get away from the fact that there are more people living in severel Indian megacities than in the entirety of Sri Lanka. Although traffic jams during rush hour in cities, and the road to the second city of Kandy in the island's center is thick with traffic, this is not on an Indian scale. Although Sri Lanka is closer to the Indian subcontinent than Key West is to Cuba, this mountainous island has maintained a distinct culture, despite the long shadow of its massive neighbor.