Saturday, March 29, 2014

Excavating the past in Hanoi and Saigon


While Saigon's cultural patrimony extends only to the nineteenth century, Hanoi bears considerable witness to an earlier era, and a culture influenced deeply by China. This is especially visible in the various pagodas and in the Confucian Temple of Literature, the city's crown jewel. Unfortunately, much of this cultural heritage was lost in the early years of French colonialism, as the newly arrived rulers sought to "modernize" the city. 


At the Confucian Temple of Literature, Hanoi

The belltower of the Temple of Literature, Hanoi
Temple of the Jade Mountain, Hanoi
Both Saigon and Hanoi contain wonderful examples of fin-de-siècle French colonial architecture, visible in government buildings, numerous villas (especially in Hanoi), Catholic churches, and the general streetscape of both cities. Both cities also have some wonderful examples of modern architecture and art nouveau from the late colonial era. 
The Saigon Post Office

The stunning Cao Bac Church in Hanoi
French colonial building, Hanoi
Neither Saigon nor Hanoi bear as much of a Soviet imprint as other communist-bloc cities. Hanoi's Ba Dinh Square echoes elements of Tienanmen Square and numerous plazas in Russia, etc. The Soviet-Vietnamese Cultural Palace and several war memorials also mimic Soviet architecture. 


Ba Dinh Square in Hanoi

War Memorial - Hanoi
Soviet-inspired government building
Saigon differs from its northern counterpart in that it has significant architectural legacy from the South Vietnamese independence period. Much of this shows a strong American influence and mimics some of the progressive architectural styles of the time. 


South Vietnam Presidential Palace, Saigon
1960s architecture - Saigon
Both cities are now experiencing a profusion of new buildings, including a number of skyscrapers and other striking modern buildings. In Hanoi, this seems to be confined largely to the areas outside the inner city, while Saigon is seeing much of this sort of development in the city center. 


The old and the new - Saigon
Hôtel de Ville and new towers, Saigon
In both cities, the various eras and styles sometimes bump up against one another in ways that are surprising. 
Ancient temple, war monument, jumbo-tron billboard - Hanoi
Vietnam-Soviet friendship monument - Saigon


The hammer and sickle flying over the Hanoi branch of Louis Vuitton

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