"The West End"

I did not realize until my recent travel to Tunisia that my experience of the Mediterranean has been disproportionately of the eastern end of this amazing region. I’ve walked the Mediterranean coast in Italy, Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, Israel, and Egypt. I’ve not experienced much of the 'west end' of this great sea or its diverse and ancient cultures. 

An early Christian grave - 5th century - Bardo Museum

I’m enough of a student of history to know something of the role of North Africa — today’s Libya, Tunisia, and Algeria — in the Greco-Roman world. This was the land of Hannibal, of Saints Cyprian and Augustine, of Tertullian and other Latin fathers of the early church. It is easy to forget in the modern world that Carthage, just north of modern Tunis, was one of the main centers of the early Christian church, as this church largely, if not completely, disappeared by the Middle Ages. 

Early Punic sculptures, showing Egyptian influence - circa 1000 BC

Yet there is abundant history before this, the history of the city of Carthage before its defeat and destruction by Rome 146 BC. Carthage was a Punic city, tracing its roots to Phoenician traders from what is now Lebanon at the dawn of the first millennium BC. Carthage presided over a rich and wide-spread Punic civilization that stretched across North Africa and into the Iberian Peninsula. A few remnants of this society can be seen in the archaeological sites of ancient Carthage, but most — including nearly all the written archives of this civilization — were lost in the final battle with Rome. The millions of Berbers/Kabyle who still live in Algeria, Morocco, and Tunisia (among other places) continue to trace their links to these ancient civilizations. 

Pre-Roman deities - circa 200 BC - Bardo Museum

Carthage arose again as a Roman city, the gateway to the rich and fertile breadbasket of North Africa that provided great wealth to republican and imperial Rome. Christianity came early to the region. St. Cyprian presided as bishop of Carthage in the third century and was martyred there. Augustine wrote and stayed there (although one dare not raise the question today of whether Augustine was Tunisian or Algerian!). The council that affirmed the canon of the Bible was likely held there. 

Classical mosaics - 3rd century - Bardo Museum

Today, Carthage is a ruin. Unlike Athens or Rome or Jerusalem, which have had layers of civilization sprawling across them since ancient times, Carthage was largely abandoned until recent decades. Today, the Tunisian presidential palace stands on the hill overlooking the Mediterranean. The homes of the rich have clustered around it. At virtually every corner, however, is an archaeological site of Punic, Classical, or Christian Carthage. The view over the brilliant blue sea and the mountains of Cap Bon peninsula is stunning. 

Ruins of the Basilica Damous el Karita - probable site of early Christian councils

I’m reminded again how deep the well of history goes in this region. This trip certainly reminded me that there’s a ‘western’ end of this story of which I’ve known very little.  

The ruins of the Cathedral of St. Cyprian - Carthage with the Mediterranean and Cap Bon in the background