The Rocky City of Jos, Nigeria

Jos is the capital of the Plateau State, located in the central part of Nigeria. Jos is a major city of northern Nigeria, although it is also a distinct area. Jos is unquestionably a Christian hub, with dozens of denominations, Christian organizations, and Christian social ministries, both international and Nigerian, having their headquarters here. Yet it is also right on the line between predominantly Christian coastal West Africa and the mostly Muslim interior. This religious line is at times quite imperceptible, while at other times its contours are stark and explosive. It also tends to migrate from time to time, as the outbreak in religious tension in Bangui, the capital of Central African Republic, has recently shown. 

A landscape between Abuja and Jos

Perhaps the most striking feature of Jos is the landscape, which includes low, rocky mountains in the distance. Most of the four-hour trip from Nigeria's capital, Abuja, is a gradually ascending trek through a rocky terrain. Some of these are small hills composed of hundreds of round boulders, while others are immense single mountains of rock. Some of them are strikingly beautiful in their stacks of rocks, precariously placed there by nature. Jos itself has many of these outcrops of rocks, big and small. Increasingly the growing city seems to be scaling up the sides of some of these rocky hills, placing buildings in precariously stacked positions on their tops. 

In Nigeria, every vehicle's license plate reveals which state it comes from, yet unlike in the US, the plates are uniform. Under the name of the state of origin is the state's motto or nickname. Abuja is the "Centre of Unity," while Kaduna is the "Land of Learning" (due to the presence of many universities there). Plateau State, where Jos is located, is the "land of peace and tourism." This seems a bit incongruous, given Jos' frequent place in the headlines due to religious and other violence. Yet Jos and the surrounding area remains a special destination in Nigerian minds, due primarily to its favorable climate. Its position on a 1000-meter plateau makes the temperatures much more moderate than most other points in the country. I have seen numerous people on the streets in the morning hours bundled tightly in winter coats and hats, despite a temperature that is probably in excess of 60F/15C. A number of people have apologized to me for "our cool weather," unaware of what truly cold weather is. Weather is indeed one of the more relative subjects. 

Half the city seemed to be covered in advertisements for these Indonesian instant noodles

Jos is a modest city of perhaps 1.5 million and much of it, including the city center, still has the feel of a much smaller town. The buildings are, for the most part, low-rise (the second "skyscraper," a perhaps 10- or 12-story building, is under construction). The streets are lined with small shops selling every imaginable wear, as well as a fruits and vegetables and various kinds of street food, some cooked in hot oil, others cooked over charcoal. 

This is my third visit to Nigeria. I have to confess that some of my most "interesting" travel stories have come from this country. Yet there are few countries where I have been welcomed more. The words "you are welcome" or "sanu" in Hausa are heard hundreds of times a day. I am amazed as well by how Nigerians navigate challenges, of which there are more than a few. In one situation, cars had to navigate their way through some concrete barriers in advance of an entry gate. This required a kind of zig-zag driving that reminded me of my first driver's test. The problem was that only one car could navigate this at a time, which often caused drivers to have to do the zig-zag in reverse to clear the way. Rather than exhibiting anger, those involved did the driving feats required, and loudly waved and greeted to the other party as they eventually passed. Police checkpoints, while intimidating sheerly because of the number of weapons about, usually involved jovial conversation and laughter and lots of big smiles. How deep any of this camaraderie goes is hard to say, for the challenges of the nation are many and great. Yet it seems to me that there is something to be learned from the mentality of so many Jos residents. Life may be challenging, but it should be enjoyed. 

A typical rocky scene in Jos