The Golden Temple

One of the highlights of this Indian trip was a visit to the Golden Temple in Amritsar. 

The Golden Temple is the center of the Sikh religion that is dominant in parts of the Punjab. There are about 26 million Sikhs living worldwide. One of the most readily identifiable markers of a Sikh is the turban worn by most Sikh men. Sikh rulers once controlled a large part of what is now northwest India and Pakistan before their Empire was defeated by the British in the mid-19th century. 

The Golden Temple surrounded by the "tank"

Today, the Golden Temple is to a Sikh what the Vatican is to Catholics and Mecca is to Muslims. Sikhs come from all over India and from large Sikh communities in America, Canada, and Europe to venerate the Sikh holy books that are in the Golden Temple. I read and heard in several places that it is not unusual for 100,000 people to visit the shrine on a given day. I find it believable, given my experience. 

A man taking a ritual dip in the holy tank

One begins the visit by storing your shoes in a massive and well-coordinated shoe-storage warehouse. You then trek through market stalls toward the entrance to the temple. Along the way, Both men and women are expected to cover their hair and enter the temple with completely bare feet. As you enter, you are asked by large Sikh guards in resplendent regalia and holding spears to wash your feet in a narrow stream. You then descend steps into the courtyard of the Temple itself. It is a huge affair, at least the size of a football field. The Temple sits in the middle, surrounded by a large tank of water that reflects the golden cupolas. Sikh men bathe in the tank, while Sikh women go to a special covered section for ladies. The faithful line up to enter the Temple itself and venerate the sacred Granth, or holy books. The words of the holy book are sung continuously, with words displayed in both Punjabi and English on giant screens in the corners. 

Crowded streets outside the temple

One of the striking things about visiting the Temple is the openness of it. While certain regulations are clearly enforced by spear-wielding Sikhs, the general atmosphere is one of relaxation and sharing the beauty of the place, Sikh or not. A free meal is always available to anyone who comes, and I'm told tens of thousands are fed daily. This openness allows for appreciation of the architecture and beauty of the place, another study in the complexity that is religion in India and South Asia.